Diverting to York

We departed CCC with a 10 knot SE breeze...not enough to sail at the speed we wanted.  All models in PredictWind were in agreement that the wind would shift to NW after midnight, some predicting as late as 04:00.  So we set a course under motor heading north, instead of directly to Portland (NNE).  This would hopefully position us for sailing in the new NW breeze.  Our course would bring us just E of Cape Ann, on a heading just east of Portsmouth, NH.

By the time Peter and I came on watch at 03:00, the wind had shifted, but was NE at about 15 knots with higher gusts, not NW, and we had rain.  Looking at updated forecasts, it seemed likely that the wind would remain NE throughout the day and we would continue to have rain for a while.  We were making just under 6 knots motoring.

I decided we should try to sail and we raised the main with two reefs.  Peter and I worked the halyard and reefing lines while Charlie was at the helm.  In the wind and waves and darkness, and with us blocking the instruments most of the time, Charlie found it difficult to hold a course into the wind.  We were often well off the wind, and even jibed once.  The solution ended up being setting up a 20 degrees port relative wind setting using the autopilot with just enough throttle to keep the boat moving forward.

Once we got the main set, pulling out the inner jib was easy and the boat settled to a relatively comfortable port tack.  The bad news was that our course was out in the Gulf of Maine, well south of Portland.  Charlie went below while Peter and I kept watch.  Not long into our watch, the wind speed dropped to 10-12 knots and we couldn’t make much headway with the double reefed main.  So, we took out both reefs and continued sailing, eventually taking over to starboard and heading that would not clear Cape Ann.

Diane posted on Facebook at 05:00:
"Note to self...I don't really love sailing in the ocean. Being cold, tired and bounced around like a cork in a washing machine may no longer hold the same appeal that it once did.
At least it's daylight now. Yippee!"

Have I mentioned that Owl Moon has a rather large tacking angle, maybe about 105 degrees.  She sails close hauled fine, but progress is slow tacking to a point upwind.  It became apparent we should motor towards Portland as we would take too long to get there tacking.  Turning towards Portland, we had to roll in the jib, but the main did not luff when trimmed in tight so we left it up even though it was not helping with our forward progress.  We were motoring at about 6 knots into wind and waves with about 60 miles to go to Portland at about 06:00.

We were just off Cape Ann and hadn’t made much progress in the last 3 hours.  I considered going back to Gloucester, only about an hour away, but if the wind was north of NW the following day, that would still be a long way, possibly motoring to Portland.  Scanning the Maine coast north of us on the chart, York Harbor looked like a possibility.  York was only 25 miles away, much closer to Portland than Gloucester, and the course from York to Cape Elizabeth was very likely going to be a reach the next day.  So we altered course to York and had to drop the main because now we were too close to the wind motoring to keep it up.

Motoring towards York in 20 knots apparent on the nose

On nearing York Harbor, I called the harbormaster to ask about a mooring.  He had a mooring for us and said he would meet us at the York Harbor bell buoy outside the harbor to lead us in and take us to our mooring.

Diane is feeling much better now with the end of the long trip from CCC in sight.

Harbormaster leading us into the harbor

After picking up our mooring and launching the dinghy, we went to the town dock.

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Locally Sourced Signs

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We walked into town and had a great lunch at the Fat Tomato Grill.  After lunch, we walked around town and stopped in to tour the Old Gaol, the oldest portion of which dated from 1720.  Back near the harbor, we also took a short walk through a nature preserve.

Charlie had to serve some time in the stocks.

The nature preserve was across this foot bridge where some kids were enjoying playing in the tidal current

Dinghy ride back to Owl Moon for nap time

After rest and a change of clothes for dinner, we took the dinghy to the east end of the harbor where we docked at the Agamenticus Yacht Club (they were closed) and walked to the York Harbor Inn.  The harbormaster had recommended it for dinner.  We had a delicious meal at the Ships Cellar Pub at the Inn.  Across the street from the inn was the Hartley Mason Reserve.

The crew at Hartley Mason Reserve before going in for dinner.

Peaceful ocean this evening from the beach in the outer harbor.

We would definitely go back to York, Maine again!