On to Frenchboro Long Island

Called Frenchboro Long Island because it is the Long Island in Frenchboro...there are a number of Long Islands in Maine.

We did a side trip into Somes Sound to give our friends a quick peak at the fjord. Not much of a fjord compared to what Norway and New Zealand have,  but beautiful nonetheless.

It was a beautiful day, but not enough wind to sail. We arrived at 12:30 and happy to find one of the 5 Lunt transient moorings available. Not long after picking up our mooring , a boat picked up the transient mooring nearby. I recognized the boat name...it was fellow CB Corinthian Jim Brunson aboard Manitou IV!

After lunch and a nap, we took the dinghy in to Lunts dock and learned they we out of lobster.  That was disappointing as we had expected fresh cooked lobster dockside for dinner. At least they had fresh picked lobster meat so we ordered 4 lobster rolls for dinner and we off to hike.

After our hike, we picked up our lobster rolls and Jim was also picking one up. He joined us for the evening aboard Owl Moon.

Layday in Northeast Harbor

Thuya Garden

View of Northeast Harbor on the walk to Thuya Garden

Hummingbird Moth

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Monarch Catepillar on Milkweed

Hike up Elliot Mountain

Tree seedling on a rock...I'd like to check back in a few years and see if it is still growing.

On to Northeast Harbor

We were the ones to break the silence in Tenents Harbor when we started our engine at 6 am...the lobstermen don't work on Sunday. We had a 51 mm day ahead of us and we wanted to arrive Northeast Harbor mid-afternoon...that's why the early start.

Sunrise in Tenents Harbor

I was glad to see there was no fog in the harbor. That would make it easier navigating the moored boats, empty moorings, and lobster pot floats that filled the harbor.

Soon after entering Penobscot Bay, we were in pretty thick fog and I turned on the radar. At least we didn't have to worry about encountering working lobster boats on a Sunday morning and it was too early for most pleasure boaters to be out.  The AIS only showed a few moving boats and none near our course.

I had plotted a course south of the islands, rocks, and ledges between Penobscot Bay and Mt. Desert Island. The only exception being a 3’ MLW ledge we would pass just north of. We had to maintain careful watch throughout the day for lobster pot floats.  They weren’t continuous, but periodically pods of them would be on our path.

On to Boothbay Harbor

90 mile day so we got an early start, leaving out mooring at Eastern Point at 4:14 AM.  It was dark, but at least not foggy.  Neil took up watch from the bow and Diane by the side shrouds until light came up enough to see floats from the cockpit.  We entered fog soon after the early morning light appeared so we never saw the sunrise.  Several times we saw boats on the radar and heard their engines, but did not see them.

Passing time during the long day.

Fishing boat coming through the fog that we had seen on AIS and called on the radio because our paths were crossing.

Neil and Carol enjoyed their first fresh Maine lobster in Boothbay Harbor.

Another weather delay

I got up early this morning to confirm what the forecast had indicated the night before...today was not going to be a good day to head to Boothbay Harbor. There were big and very steep waves.

After a slow morning and then a quick trip in for Diane and Carol to shop at a consignment shop, we went to Rocky Neck across the harbor for lunch. We had another delicious meal with a beautiful view at the Studio Restaurant.

Mural in Gloucester 

Though not great, tomorrow looked like an okay day to head for Boothbay Harbor so we left our mooring in the inner harbor and moved out to a mooring at the Eastern Point Yacht Club behind Dog Bar breakwater at the outer harbor entrance.  On our trip out there,  we had clear confirmation that today was not a good day to venture beyond the breakwater..

The club restaurant was closed, but we did make use of their nice showers and then explored the area.

Eastern Point Lighthouse 

Neil and I walked out to the end of Dog Bar breakwater after our showers.

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View of the mooring field with Owl Moon of to the left.

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Back at the boat,  we had had a light dinner and reviewed the forecast data one more time before turning in early.

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Exploring Gloucester

With bad weather forecast for Sunday,  we didn't set an alarm. It was nice to sleep in.  I made blueberry pancakes and we enjoyed a leisurely breakfast. Our plan was to stay in Gloucester for the day.

The weather didn't turn out as bad as forecast so we called the launch to go ashore and explore Gloucester. We enjoyed a delicious late lunch at Passport and then walked down to the harborside where there is a rocky beach.

The fishemen's memorial faces out to sea from the harbor. There is a wall at the memorial with the names of all the Gloucester fishermen lost at sea.

The Blynman Bridge crosses the Blynman Canal at Gloucester Harbor.  The canal connects Gloucester Harbot to the Annisquam River creating a north/south passage that bisects the cape. Much smaller than the Cape Cod Canal!

Across the bridge is a fishermen's wives memorial...also looking out on the harbor.

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Beautiful and well maintained gardens along the harbor walk.

We decided to check out the Crows Nest pub, featured in “The Perfect Storm” so we walked back to the other end of town.  The bar lived up to its reputation as a dive bar where locals hang out.  There was a bumper sticker over the bulletin board that read, “New England Fishery Management Council...ruining fishermen's lives.” We decided not to stay for a drink.

It seemed like a good time for a movie. We had seen a  small theater at the other end of town and headed back that way. “Leave No Trace" was playing at 6:30 pm, perfect timing.

This is the movie theater,  not a sofa showroom.

We came out of the movie theater about 8:45 and called the launch phone number and didn't get an answer. We walked to the nearby public landing...no launch.  Called again...still no answer. Decided to walk the short distance to the harbormaster’s office and saw the launch tied up there with cover on. Called again and still no answer.  The launch was supposed to run until 10 pm! I asked a group of 4 who had just come on the dock to board their dinghy if they had a radio. They did not, but offered us a ride to our boat. We were lucky that they happened to be there just then! Sailors helping sailors.

On to Gloucester

I woke up at first light and figured we might as well get an early start to allow more time to sail. Neil heard me and got up to join me. We were off the mooring at 5:30 with a beautiful sunrise.

As we came out of Provincetown Harbor we saw the lead boats in the Beringer Overnight Race race just arriving. I think they were becalmed a while overnight.  They had left Boston at 7 pm yesterday.

We followed the curve of the hook at the end of Cape Cod around to Race Point Light.  Ahead were a lot of fishing boats on our course at the south edge of Stellwagon Bank, just NW of the end of Cape Cod. As we neared the fishing fleet,  I thought I saw a bit of smoke appear just above the water between two fishing boats. When a dark shape appeared under the “smoke” I realized I had seen a whale blow.

There turned out to be several whales in the area. We rolled in the big jib and out the little jib to have maneuverability as we spent some time whale watching from Owl Moon. They put on quite a show.  A couple of times one rolled onto its side and waved with its flipper.

It was another beautiful day on the water.  We sailed all the way to Gloucester. First on a close reach and then the wind shifted SE and we went dead downwind wing and wing, with the little jib out as well.

We arrived Gloucester at 3:30 pm where we had a mooring reserved in the inner harbor. I called the harbor harbor launch to find out where our mooring was and he led us to a mooring where a power boat was towed and I could see him having a conversation with those aboard. Uh oh! He soon radioed to tell us that the boat was on our mooring and would be leaving soon.

After an afternoon nap and happy hour appetizers aboard, we called the launch to go ashore. Fortunately for us, we called early to go in and walk around a bit before our 7pm dinner reservation at Rudder Restaurant. The launch took 30 minutes to get to us and then we made a couple of stops before arriving the dock of the restaurant just before 7.  There are moorings and an anchorage in the outer harbor, about 2 nm from us that the single launch also serves and he was delayed serving requests from out there.

The restaurant was packed and noisy, food was good.

On to Provincetown, MA

We wanted an early start today to make Provincetown for dinner ashore. We also needed to time our entry into the Cape Cod Canal for favorable current. That would be about 10:30 am.

I was awake as usual with the light of the sunrise and Neil was up to join me. We weighed anchor at 6 am. It was soon obvious we were going to be early to the canal by motor sailing,  so we cut  the motor and sailed for a while.

Heading out of Cuddyhunk. 

Sailing was great, but it was going to delay our arrival to P’town if we sailed all the way to the Canal in the relatively light wind. So, we motorsailed the last bit of Buzzards Bay to time our arrival to the canal.

Nearing the railroad bridge at the west end of the Cape Cod Canal.

Interesting boat we passed on our way through the canal.

Once through the canal, we set course for Provincetown and had a great sail much of the way. We had a mooring reserved with Flyers Boat Rentals.  It is great to have a mooring with launch service in a busy harbor so that we don't have to use our dinghy.

After a nap and appetizers aboard, we called the launch to go in for dinner and exploring P’town.  We ate at Bayside Betsy's in a room overlooking the harbor...food was delicious with big portions (leftovers were packaged to bring back to the boat).

Kalmar Nyckel leaving P'town for a sail

After dinner, Diane suggested we take in one of the shows. The 8:30 pm show at the Crown & Anchor with Dina Martina that was just starting would finish in time to catch the launch back to Owl Moon, so we bought tickets for it. The show was entertaining, though I was a bit tired to really enjoy it.

Photo op with Dina Martina

Before boarding the launch,  we walked to the end if the pier where Kalmar Nyckel, the Tall Ship of Delaware, was tied.  She was an impressive sight with a lion for her figurehead. Guy  We were amazed at how many lines there were to pull.

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